Chassis "lube job"...not needed...or is it?
01-29-2004, 04:59 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Remember when "lube jobs" always included a grease gun for the ball joints (upper and lower). control arms, tie rod ends, etc?
Some of the junior members may not remember, as they have never owned a car that required a chassis lube. But is that really true?
Of course, it is a trick question. But I do a regular once a year chassis lube which consists of cleaning and lubing all the rubber boots in the front and rear suspension. These things are in hostile environments, and while the rubber used is high quality, once it is damaged, dirt and water can enter, and allow the pieces to grind themselves beyond salvage. I have seen Honda dealers charge $50 for this, but they of course do not clean the parts first - which is not good.
Some guys just shoot silicone spray all over - but this is actually worse than doing nothing. Dirt will be trapped under the silicone, which also then makes a gooey mess that picks up more garbage.
************************************************** ************
Here is what I do.
Parts needed: Floor jack, jack stands, water hose, pail, car wash concentrate, a good brush, towels, silicone spray, degreaser (non-solvent brake cleaner is good)
I jack up the rear first and use the jack stands- this allows you to do the requisite cleaning, but if you did the front first and your work area slopes down front to back, you will then be working on the rear in a lot of water.
Using a quality car wash with perhaps double the amount of detergent in warm water, I carefully wash the rubber boots with the same brush I use to clean the wheels and tires - one of those "split end" poly brushes. I clean the boots and any area that has a rubber protective cover, such as on the rear half-shafts, steering, etc.
Rinse completely.
Let the rubber completely dry - completely. It should not look greasy, but have a smooth, matte color with no major bumps from tar or chewing gum etc.
When they are completely dry, the "chassis lube" begins.
You want to use a quality silicone spray. But isn't silicone, silicone, you ask? Good question. The answer is no. Silicone sprays vary quite a bit in the amount of true silicone in them, although they all use another liquid as the "carrier" for the aerosol. Cheap ones are cheap because the carriers are cheap and the silicone is less cheap, and the average buyer will not know he is getting less true material for the price.
I have had good results using 3M Silicone Spray - you may have to hunt for it, but I have found it in AutoZone, and a web search will surely reveal other sources. Like practically anything 3M makes, it is first-class in quality, and the amount of silicone in it is relatively high.
Spray the rubber boots with a decent amount of the silicone, to ensure wet, but try to avoid so much that it drips. That is just wasteful. Make sure you get the top of the boots - any excess can be wiped away with a paper towel.
Be careful when spraying around the brakes - you do not want to contaminate the pad/rotor with excessive overspray - so, use a paper towel or an old shop rag to "mask" off any areas you do not want to spray.
Let the parts completely dry - if you do not let the carrier oil and solvent completely dry, you will pick up dirt.
Then do the front suspension area.
Ta-daaah - you are done!
Now, I just do this at once a year , and that may be excessive - depends on where you drive and how many miles. But just doing it as part of the annual "winter layaway" is simple to remember - add do remember to add this "chassis lube" to your service records. When a prospective buyer asks about it, your explanation will no doubt impress.
************************************************** ***********
Now, there will be some that will question the necessity: "I have never done this and blah blah blah". To them I say, fine, do what you want. But I will say that since a former mechanic suggested this procedure to me 20 years ago, I have never lost a boot to wear - not one. I have had slit from race debris a few times, but caught it at my post race "inspection". But never have had one wear out.
Ozone, road salts, dirt and debris, weak acids from sulfur mixed with water, etc. present hazards to these rubber parts, and it is a testimony to modern rubber technology that they do as well as they do. But a 30 minute job once a year can extend their life indefinitely.
Some of the junior members may not remember, as they have never owned a car that required a chassis lube. But is that really true?
Of course, it is a trick question. But I do a regular once a year chassis lube which consists of cleaning and lubing all the rubber boots in the front and rear suspension. These things are in hostile environments, and while the rubber used is high quality, once it is damaged, dirt and water can enter, and allow the pieces to grind themselves beyond salvage. I have seen Honda dealers charge $50 for this, but they of course do not clean the parts first - which is not good.
Some guys just shoot silicone spray all over - but this is actually worse than doing nothing. Dirt will be trapped under the silicone, which also then makes a gooey mess that picks up more garbage.
************************************************** ************
Here is what I do.
Parts needed: Floor jack, jack stands, water hose, pail, car wash concentrate, a good brush, towels, silicone spray, degreaser (non-solvent brake cleaner is good)
I jack up the rear first and use the jack stands- this allows you to do the requisite cleaning, but if you did the front first and your work area slopes down front to back, you will then be working on the rear in a lot of water.
Using a quality car wash with perhaps double the amount of detergent in warm water, I carefully wash the rubber boots with the same brush I use to clean the wheels and tires - one of those "split end" poly brushes. I clean the boots and any area that has a rubber protective cover, such as on the rear half-shafts, steering, etc.
Rinse completely.
Let the rubber completely dry - completely. It should not look greasy, but have a smooth, matte color with no major bumps from tar or chewing gum etc.
When they are completely dry, the "chassis lube" begins.
You want to use a quality silicone spray. But isn't silicone, silicone, you ask? Good question. The answer is no. Silicone sprays vary quite a bit in the amount of true silicone in them, although they all use another liquid as the "carrier" for the aerosol. Cheap ones are cheap because the carriers are cheap and the silicone is less cheap, and the average buyer will not know he is getting less true material for the price.
I have had good results using 3M Silicone Spray - you may have to hunt for it, but I have found it in AutoZone, and a web search will surely reveal other sources. Like practically anything 3M makes, it is first-class in quality, and the amount of silicone in it is relatively high.
Spray the rubber boots with a decent amount of the silicone, to ensure wet, but try to avoid so much that it drips. That is just wasteful. Make sure you get the top of the boots - any excess can be wiped away with a paper towel.
Be careful when spraying around the brakes - you do not want to contaminate the pad/rotor with excessive overspray - so, use a paper towel or an old shop rag to "mask" off any areas you do not want to spray.
Let the parts completely dry - if you do not let the carrier oil and solvent completely dry, you will pick up dirt.
Then do the front suspension area.
Ta-daaah - you are done!
Now, I just do this at once a year , and that may be excessive - depends on where you drive and how many miles. But just doing it as part of the annual "winter layaway" is simple to remember - add do remember to add this "chassis lube" to your service records. When a prospective buyer asks about it, your explanation will no doubt impress.
************************************************** ***********
Now, there will be some that will question the necessity: "I have never done this and blah blah blah". To them I say, fine, do what you want. But I will say that since a former mechanic suggested this procedure to me 20 years ago, I have never lost a boot to wear - not one. I have had slit from race debris a few times, but caught it at my post race "inspection". But never have had one wear out.
Ozone, road salts, dirt and debris, weak acids from sulfur mixed with water, etc. present hazards to these rubber parts, and it is a testimony to modern rubber technology that they do as well as they do. But a 30 minute job once a year can extend their life indefinitely.
01-29-2004, 05:05 PM
#2
Moderator
Once the rubber goes bad, the joint inside will go bad real fast. "Lubed for life" chassis components are contingent on the life of the rubber. Great idea...
01-29-2004, 05:09 PM
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Bad rubber = Just plain bad :LOL
Ok just for clarification, you are saying that the only place you lube is the rubber boots (CV & steering boot in front)? Aside from the the swaybar mounts I can't think of any other place in particular..
Ok just for clarification, you are saying that the only place you lube is the rubber boots (CV & steering boot in front)? Aside from the the swaybar mounts I can't think of any other place in particular..
01-29-2004, 05:22 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally posted by ninegrand
Bad rubber = Just plain bad :LOL
Ok just for clarification, you are saying that the only place you lube is the rubber boots (CV & steering boot in front)? Aside from the the swaybar mounts I can't think of any other place in particular..
Bad rubber = Just plain bad :LOL
Ok just for clarification, you are saying that the only place you lube is the rubber boots (CV & steering boot in front)? Aside from the the swaybar mounts I can't think of any other place in particular..
+ Ball joints, subframe insulators, control arm bushings, differential mount brackets, driveshaft inner and outer boots, etc.
On a car, anything that is black and not plastic probably is rubber. Hit it all.
The boots are the hardest to clean because of the accordion pleats. Most of the other parts I just rinse with a strong water spray or one of those cheap "car wash spray" products that attach to your water hose.
01-29-2004, 05:32 PM
#6
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The boot covers aren't all that bad to get to and allow for a fair amount of room to clean. If the wheels are off you can rotate the rear and get to all the nooks and crannies. Same with the front only you can also turn the wheels to get at it better.
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01-29-2004, 05:37 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally posted by alexf20c
What lube should I use for my rear end? My friend tried using his gun but it was too thick and too tight of a fit.
What lube should I use for my rear end? My friend tried using his gun but it was too thick and too tight of a fit.
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